Some have a cambelt that needs changing at 30,000 miles (a straightforward job with easy access) while the rest have a timing chain that gets noisy at higher mileages. But whichever one you’re considering, it’s going to need checking for the usual signs of wear and neglect, from exhaust smoke and oil leaks to head gasket failure and a cooling system that’s past its best. These engines are also considered to be pretty bulletproof, and well-maintained ones should cover 100,000 miles before a rebuild is due. The larger cam-in-head (CiH) motors are the better bet if you want the go to match the show, with the injected 2.0-litre’s 110bhp making for a genuine 120mph machine. This generation of Manta used a wide variety of engines in varying capacities and power outputs, although the smaller units resulted in somewhat modest performance. It’s worth checking where the plastic addenda attaches, though, as bubbling could point to worse problems beneath.Īssuming rot isn’t a major problem on the car you’re considering, then spend time checking the condition of exterior trim and lights units – you can source second-hand parts but the more complete and undamaged the better. It can also point you in the right direction when it comes to finding bits for the body kit that featured on the facelifted B2 models some sections are harder to source than others, but they are out there if you search. ![]() German specialist, dr Manta, is a good place to start, but the club is having some parts remade, such as roof skins and rear panels. According to the Opel Manta Owners’ Club, the situation has improved in recent years. Sourcing replacement panels and repair sections isn’t quite as difficult as you’d think, although some are a bit pricey, with a genuine front wing costing more than £400. Don’t skimp on the checks as major restoration can become a time-consuming and costly affair, although there is good news. We’re not finished yet, as the battery tray, fuel tank (on the hatch – it’s less exposed on coupes), floorpan, footwells, chassis rails, jacking points and bulkhead could all be pretty frilly by now and so require proper scrutiny. If the latter’s drain holes are blocked, it can lead to rust deeper within the structure. You’ll need to examine all of the usual rot spots, including the wings and wheelarches, door bottoms, valances and sills, and play close attention to screen and sunroof surrounds. It seems that the earlier German-built cars are better at resisting corrosion than later ones produced in Belgium, but even with that in mind any prospective purchase will need careful checking. ![]() If you’re tempted to join the Manta crew, what should you be looking for? And while it’s the Ford that often makes the headlines now, the Opel’s strong following is well-deserved. By the time the Manta B bowed out in 1988 – outlasting the Capri in the process – a total of 557,698 had been built. Top dog for many, however, was the GT/E that arrived in 1982. Powered by overhead-cam 1.8 and cam-in-head fuel-injected 2.0-litre engines, the Manta offered buyers a choice of hatchback and coupe body styles that featured a body kit and spoilers for added kerb appeal. It served up a decent helping of style, but the version that many enthusiasts remember best is the B2 that appeared in 1982 and lasted until the Manta’s demise six years later.Īs a strong rival to the Mk3 Capri, the sight of rally legends like Russell Brookes and Jimmy McRae charging through the forests cemented the sporting Opel in the mind of many a car fan. Launched in 1975, it was effectively a Mk1 Vauxhall Cavalier Coupe or Sportshatch with an Opel badge, sharing that car’s range of modestly-powerful four-cylinder engines. The first model to bear the Manta name dates from 1970, but it’s the second-generation range that interests us here. The Opel Manta B boasts a fine mix of style and performance to rival the evergreen Ford Capri.
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